Yosemite, week one


Just as I hoped it would, a lot happened in the previous week: I climbed El Capitan, logged 27 pitches in only three days, placed a couple hundred cams and as many jams, made many new friends, took 1300 photos, smashed into a corner at full speed during an abseil, scrapped most of the skin of the bottom of my right foot and destroyed a camera. All in all, a pretty good week.

In the valley since Sunday, I managed to climb Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday (5.10d, 8 pitches), the Kor Beck on Middle Cathedral (5.9, 6 pitches), the East Buttress of El Cap (5.10b, 13 pitches), Lunatic Fringe (5.10c) and Reeds Direct (5.9, 2 pitches). All are stupendous lines with some pretty hard pitches (5.9 can be really mean in the valley) and some of the best rock I have ever seen or climbed.

While abseiling P1 of Sons on the first day, I tensioned to avoid going over a roof in the plumb line, then went a bit too far, lost my footing and went for a big swing that ended rather abruptly. I certainly regretted abseiling bare foot on that day, though most of the injuries are now healed or on their way.

The AAC meet is finishing tonight, so Stefan and I will move to Camp 4 early in the morning, and then get on with our training plan to get on the Nose, hopefully next week. In the meantime, here is a selection of the photos I took in the past week.


One thought on “Yosemite, week one

  1. Looks like a great adventure so far. Looking forward to more photos/stories. Every time I see a shot of El Cap, my heart starts racing. It’ll be a few years before I get back to climbing hard, but The Nose is on my bucket list. Rock on!

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