Packing for an ice climbing trip to Norway

Ice climbing gearlist

With a few friends, we are driving to far away Norway this weekend, hoping to get some long ice climbs done in Eidfjord, near Bergen, location of last year’s epic new route by Will Gadd and Andreas Spak. Following my alpine gear list blog post from a few months ago, here is what I am actually packing.

From top to bottom, left to right:

  • Patagonia DAS jacket, for cold and wet belays, which should be common.
  • Black Diamond Half Dome helmet, mandatory on ice climbs.
  • Petzl Tikka XP2 headtorch, since the climbs are very long and we may have to abseil in the dark.
  • Simond Makalu crampons, standard mountaineering crampons which work fine on steep ice.
  • Black Diamond Cobra ice tools, light and awesome.
  • Black Diamond spinner leash, to avoid dropping my leashless tools from the top of pitch 7.
  • 1L nalgene bottle. To be honest, I’d be surprised if I even drink that much during the day.
  • DMM Supercouloir harness, one of the lightest on the market, really excellent as long as I don’t have to hang in it for too long.
  • A couple of locking carabiners, prusik loops, a sling – enough to ascend the rope in an emergency.
  • Petzl Reverso 3 belay device, great with skinny ropes and with the autolock mode for bringing seconds up.
  • Western Mountaineering AlpinLite sleeping bag, a summer down bag since we’ll sleep in huts.
  • La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, as I am betting on conditions not being too brutally cold and not taking the Spantiks.
  • Panasonic GH1, as I’ll spend most of my time belaying or climbing, not hanging on a rope taking pictures, so bringing the D90 would be overkill.
  • Sennheiser MKE-200, small microphone to use when filming with the GH1.
  • Thinktank Skin Wide, the smallest pouch in the Skin system, more than enough for the GH1.
  • A pair of Millet three finger mitts, for warmth at belays. I also know I can take pictures with them. If they get wet, I will really suffer.
  • Thin leather Marmot gloves, for the climbing itself. They will probably get wet quickly, but there’s not much I can do about it.
  • A big pair of merino wool socks (no, that’s not a fluffy for the mic).
  • Arc’teryx Alpha LT bibs, light and very sturdy gore-tex pants. Below them, a couple of long underpants for insulation.
  • Arc’teryx Alpha LT jacket, in case things are wet (which is quite likely).
  • Rab Vapour Rise jacket, for its excellent warmth and breathability.

Add to the list a backpack (the Osprey Mutant 38), a fleece, a book and a music player, and you have my weekend. Excited I am!


2 thoughts on “Packing for an ice climbing trip to Norway

  1. Bernard says:

    Bonjour Alexandre,
    It’s the first time I see you mentioning a GH1. For the type of photography you do, how would you compare its image quality to that of your D90?
    BTW, thanks for an always interesting blog!
    Bernard from Lyon

  2. Hi Bernard,

    I got the GH1 last summer for its amazing video quality, but will also pack it for the occasional shot when photo is not the main priority. Image quality is great, though I still prefer my D90 for serious work, due to its optical viewfinder and really good Nikon lenses.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *